A client requested a haul out list which once written we thought worth sharing. It was aimed at a 40 for cat hauling in Grenada but there will be clear crossovers to your boat. This is a work in progress so feel free to send us any suggestions you’d like to see added.
Before you haul, make sure it’s clear where the strops go. Mark with tape. Put a line on each corner, have all the fenders ready. Check to see if you will need to drop the boom to stop the topping lift getting in the way of the travelift. Rest it on a fender. Lift slips can be tight with sharp corners; plan/think more, throttle/panic less. Have cold drinks and a big smiles ready for the yard crew, it gets you a better jet-wash. Once hauled and washed, try to get placed amongst cats, they won’t fall on you in a hurricane. Take photos of how the boat is chocked and those around you, don’t hesitate to query yard manager if you are not happy.
Prior to haul, drop the dinghy run the engine up and then pull the fuel hose and let it run out of fuel. As it dies you can give it a good squirt of fogging oil through the air intake (black plastic box seen at front of engine with cover off). Expect apocalyptic smoke, it’s part of the fun. If lots of fuel left in the tank add stabilizer otherwise just dispose of it. Yard will have a waste oil tank or give away. Tiller controlled engines can come off and get stored inside yacht. Small ribs can be deflated and lashed upside down in cockpit or on deck? Better for security and will stop the tubes getting hammered in the sun. You can suck the tubes right down with a vacuum. Larger dinghies can be left on davits but make sure they will drain. Alternatively drop right down and store under yacht.
Take a photo of both sides once hauled before you clean. This will tell you if the boat is balanced well and if you need to change antifoul before you launch. Clean between boot stripe and waterline, Jet wash the hull and that’s all needed at this end of the season. Check anodes and order replacements. Check through hulls for any electrolysis (pitting). Give the rudders a good shake to check bearings. Check around drive leg and prop for corrosion or damage. Those with shafts make sure there is no movement in the P bracket. Clean transducers and paddlewheel on log.
Sails off, dried, flaked and bagged. Any lines on the mast taken outboard so they won’t beat it to death. Any lines that are easy to remove should be gone. Remove anything that’s not bolted down. Rest boom on coachroof if it’s going to swing around in the wind.
Once washed outside S/S can be preserved with a wipe over with vaseline’d rag. Dump all of the anchor onto the ground (preferably on an old pallet where you can wash it). Wash out locker, get rid of all the salt. Haul chain back in once nice and dry. This is also a great time to redo depth markings on the chain should this be something you like to have.
Remove the expensive stuff or lock. Check lid seals and drain are functioning. Some remove tramps to stop them being baked. It’s a pain and risks an interesting fall so you need to weigh this one up. Remove leather wrapped wheels. Cover or unbolt helm seats and teak table tops and store in yacht Is water going to pool anywhere? Any deck drains likely to block?
Fill fuel tanks right up, counter-intuitive but stops moisture building up and rotting tanks. Mix in fuel preservative. Changing engine oil removes the chance of moisture laden oil corroding engine this is a consideration but more likely in colder areas. Wash engine and wet vac ALL water out of engine bay. Spray it all to death with WD40. It’s possible to flush raw water side of the engine with fresh water to remove salt. There will be a description of how to do this in the manual. Check seals on engine room hatches. Put preservative in the water tanks, then run it though the system before draining down as best as you can OR drain system and wetvac out the tanks and dry completely if that is an option. Pickle the watermaker (needs to be done in clean water prior to hauling). Instructions in manual. Clean various water filters around the boat.
Covers over screens. If there is any chance they might blow off apply a couple of blobs or clear silicone sealant around the sides (this is easily picked off later). Power choice: turn everything off and even cover solar panels if you have them. Or leave panels live and leave a small draw item on (LED light?) and the system live so the batteries and system works constantly. The only downside is the slightly increased risk of fire but realistically this is tiny and should help prolong that life of the batteries.
Clean and dry. Spray down all electricals. Spray seacocks from outside while opening and closing (straw on WD40 should reach). Coat seacocks with protectant and leave closed (keep the creepy crawlies out. Leaving some floor boards up will allow air to circulate.
Pump toilets dry, perhaps run some pump lubricant through also. Then clean toilet and area really well. Get a decent amount of tank treatment into (empty) black tanks. Remove shower grates and wash away all soap residue (in many cases this may contain animal fat and will stink after cooking for the summer). Empty shower tray. Drain down taps and shower hoses.
Remove all food and place a few Cockroach motels around. Turn all gas burners (lit, obviously) on and then switch off at tank to empty hoses. Stack dry, cleaned cushions in a cabin trying to leave air gaps around them to prevent mildew. Stand mattresses on their edges for the same reason. Cover hatches and windows to reduce heat. Doing this on salon sliding doors will also increase security. Leave fridge and cupboards ajar.
Be careful around the boatyard. Get a decent ladder and tie it up securely. Wear proper shoes, this is no place for flip flops. Think twice about what you do on deck, you are now working at height. Don’t hurry anything.